Design the perfect serum for your skin!

Serums are incredibly popular and for good reason. They're nothing but super concentrated goodness. Moisturisers and creams are approximately 80% water plus they contain emulsifiers and preservatives. We're not saying that emulsifiers and preservatives are a bad thing, they have an essential role in a great deal of skincare products, but if you prefer to avoid them, purely oil based serums are an excellent way to do so.

Here we've outlined some of our favourite carrier oils and essential oils so you can make an informed decision on which are right for your skin type. This is by no means a full list, there are plenty more to play with!

Here's an incredibly simple formula you can use to build your very own personalised face serum designed specifically for you. Or for a lucky friend! (Personalised serums make excellent gifts!)

We recommend using 2 -3 different carrier oils and 2 - 3 different essential oils but feel free to mix it up!

Makes 100ml - use our Batch Size Calculator and the percentages provided here to easily adjust the volume of your batch.

99g | 99% Carrier oil/s
0.5g (approximately 6 drops) | 0.5% Essential oil/s
0.5g | 0.5% Vitamin E (helps naturally preserve, giving your serum a longer shelf life)

Example: Night repair serum
49.5g | Rosehip oil, certified organic
49.5g | Jojoba oil, certified organic
0.5g | Vitamin E
0.125g | Helichrysum essential oil
0.125g | Frankincense essential oil
0.125g | Geranium essential oil
0.125g | Myrrh essential oil

• Weigh out your ingredients (Salter precision scales are a bit of an investment but come with a 15 year guarantee and promise more accuracy, particularly when dealing with very small weights. Otherwise a less expensive option are our mini scales)
• Stir until everything is evenly blended (a mini silicone spatula is helpful for this but you can use a spoon)
• Pour into bottles and you're done!

5ml and 20ml dropper bottles are great or you could use a 10ml roll on bottle so you can pop it in your bag and always have it on hand.

Now for the fun part, making your choices!

NOTE: Take notes! You may think that you will remember your ingredients and ratios but (if you're anything like me) I promise six months later when you come to recreate your favourite serum you'll have no idea!

A little about what it all means

You'll see these popping up in the descriptions for oils so it's good to have an idea of what their properties are to help you make you choices.

Linoleic Acid is an essential building block for ceramides, one of skin's main moisturising elements. Our bodies can't make this essential fatty acid, so we need get it from our food or put it on our skin. Topical use of linoleic acid helps reduce acne breakouts.

Vitamin E can help improve fine lines and wrinkles by providing an antioxidant boost that protects from sun damage and encourages the healthy growth of new skin cells.

Vitamin A thickens and stimulates the dermis where your collagen, elastin and blood vessels are, so it can reduce wrinkles and increase blood flow to the surface of the skin. Vitamin A increases the deposition of collagen and slows the normal ageing breakdown of your collagen and elastin.

Zinc aids in the healing of skin and prevention of acne by regulating the activity of the oil glands. Zinc promotes a healthy immune system and the healing of tissues. It is also an antioxidant which helps to fight and prevent the formation of free radicals. Acne can be a sign of zinc deficiency. Due to its anti-inflammatory effects, zinc is especially beneficial for inflammatory acne and related scarring.

Omega-3 fatty acids benefit skin by regulating oil production to boost hydration and prevent acne, and by delaying the skins ageing process to stave off wrinkles.

Omega-6 fatty acids replenish the lipid structure of the skin and are vital to maintaining your skin’s barrier, keeping it smooth, moisturised and elastic. By applying oils rich in both the omega-6 fatty acids, linoleic fatty acid (LA) and gamma-linoleic fatty acid (GLA), you are ensuring your skin is receiving the optimal fatty acid nutrition required to maintain healthy, glowing skin

Omega 7 fatty acids benefit your skin in many ways and aids the collagen in your skin, which helps heal various types of damage. Skin problems can also be eliminated with omega 7 fatty acids. This includes acne and other problems caused by inflammation. In addition, healthy, hydrated skin helps prevent loss of skin elasticity so that skin is protected against wrinkles.

Carrier oils and their benefits

Barbary fig (aka prickly pear seed oil), certified organic

• Comedogenic rating: 1-2
• Fast absorption rate
• Good for most skin types, particularly oily/combination skin
• Exceptionally high in vitamin E and linoleic acid
• Rich essential fatty acids, antioxidants, active minerals and amino acids
• Said to protect against free radicals
• Can help stimulate cellular renewal
• Can help calm inflammation

Barbary fig aka prickly pear seed oil, penetrates below the surface of the skin for maximum benefits without leaving any oily residue. It has an almost silicone feel to it rather than oil. It's great for all skin types, supporting skin repair after trauma and providing protection from environmental stress. Excellent for mature skin as it helps address signs of ageing, while the high fatty acid content plumps skin to help smooth wrinkles and increase firmness. Also highly beneficial to dry hair and scalp, soothing irritation and boosting shine.

Blackcurrant seed oil, NZ

• Comedogenic rating: 0-1
• Slow absorption rate
• Good for dry or sensitive skin
• High in linoleic acid and gamma-linolenic acid
• Natural antioxidant
• Can help increase skin elasticity
• Can help regenerate skin cells
• Can help moisturise and prevent dryness
• Can help slow the formation of fine lines and wrinkles

This sweet and earthy scented oil is extremely rich in gamma-linolenic acid and antioxidants, making it a very good anti-inflammatory agent. Said to increase skin elasticity and slow signs of premature ageing. Slow absorption rate makes it ideal for a rich night-time oil.

Borage seed oil, certified organic

• Comedogenic rating: 2
• Slow absorption rate
• Good for combination, oily, sensitive and acne prone skin
• Can help rebalance skin's natural oils
• Very high gamma-linolenic acid content
• High in linoleic acid
• Can help calm and heal dry and damaged skin
• Often used to treat eczema, psoriasis and rosacea

Great for sensitive skin, borage oil is very hydrating and can help restore moisture, smooth dry skin and provide relief for inflamed skin. Slow absorption rate means it's better used in a night-time blend or blended with a fast absorbing oil for daytime use.

Calendula infused oil NZ, certified organic

• Comedogenic rating: 1
• Average - slow absorption rate
• Good for most skin types
• Rich in vitamin E
• Gentle and soothing
• Assists with dry and damaged skin
• Good for sensitive skin
• Can help protect skin from drying out
• Can help skin inflammation such as acne and eczema
• Said to help boost collagen and aid in tissue regeneration

An excellent anti-inflammatory oil, said to be good for all skin types, including sensitive skin, and is used for treating skin damage such as wounds, scars, burns and inflammation. Sunflower oil contains useful amounts of essential fatty acids and a high amount of vitamin E and is good for all skin types.

Camellia oil, certified organic

• Comedogenic rating: 1
• Fast absorption rate
• Good for most skin types
• Can help skin retain moisture
• High in omega-9
• Can help firm and tone skin
• Can help prevent fine lines and wrinkles
• Soothing for irritated skin

Camellia oil is rich in vitamins and fatty acids and has a very low comedogenic rating which means it won’t clog pores and aggravate acne or acne prone skin. Makes a good day oil as it’s very non-greasy. Also makes an excellent and inexpensive makeup remover.

Cherry kernel oil, certified organic

• Comedogenic rating: 2
• Average absorption rate
• Good for most skin types, particularly dry or irritated skin
• High in vitamin A
• High in omega-9
• Said to promote collagen production
• Can help cell rejuvenation
• Can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles

Light and fast absorbing, with a high vitamin content. Works well as a day oil.

Chia seed oil, certified organic

• Comedogenic rating: 3
• Average absorption rate
• Good for most skin types, particularly good for use as a body oil
• Rich antioxidant oil
• Said to be a great source of zinc
• Said to be the richest botanical source of omega-3 fatty acids
• Can help plump skin
• Can help relieve dry skin
• Can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles

Very moisturising yet non-greasy.

Grape seed oil 
(certified organic or NZ)

• Comedogenic rating: 1
• Fast absorption rate
• Good for most skin types
• Can help balance out dry and oily skin
• Soothing for acne and ezcema
• High in linoleic acid
• Can help reduce scarring
• Can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles
• Can help firm and tighten skin
• Can help restore collagen

A soothing light and fast absorbing oil which can help brighten skin and regenerate new cell growth. Great for a day oil when teamed with another light/dry oil.
 

Hazelnut oil, certified organic

• Comedogenic rating: 1
• Slow absorption rate
• Good for most skin types, particularly sensitive and acne prone skin
• Hydrating
• Good for sensitive skin
• High in vitamin E
• Can help cleanse and shrink pores
• Can help improve skin elasticity
• Can help boost collagen
• Can help reduce fine lines
• Smells amazing!

Hazelnut oil is one of our personal faves, it has a high vitamin E content, which can help boost collagen, improving firmness and elasticity. AND its scent is reminiscent of Ferrero Rochers, which we certainly don't hate. Slow absorption rate makes it a great night-time oil.

Hemp seed oil, certified organic

• Comedogenic rating: 0
• Average absorption rate
• Good for most skin types, including oily and acne prone skin
• Nutritious and moisturising for dry skin
• Can help balance oil production
• Doesn’t clog pores
• Said to help regenerate skin cells
• Contains omega 6 gamma-linoleic fatty acid (GLA)
• Calming on irritated skin such as acne and eczema
• Can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles

A great oil for those introducing oil into their everyday routine. As it has a 0 comedogenic rating it won’t clog pores and is very unlikely to cause breakouts. Average absorbing oil can work for day or night depending on what it’s blended with.

Jojoba oil, certified organic

• Comedogenic rating: 2
• Average absorption rate
• Good for most skin types, including oily and acne prone skin
• Resembles skins natural sebum
• Can help balance out oil production

Jojoba oil is extremely popular as it is an excellent all round oil. Because it so closely resembles skin’s natural sebum (the oil your skin naturally creates) it makes it easy to absorb and helps balance oil production by tricking naturally oily skin into thinking it has produced enough oil. Also very moisturising for dry skin. Jojoba is full of nutrients such as vitamin E, as well as antioxidants and minerals like chromium, copper, and zinc, which all nourish and protect skin. Organic, cold-pressed, jojoba oil has the highest level of antioxidants and nutrients.

Kiwi seed oil, NZ

• Comedogenic rating: 1
• Fast absorption rate
• Good for dry or flaky skin
• Natural antioxidant
• High in vitamin E
• High concentrations of Omega 3 fatty acid
• High in alpha-linolenic acid
• Can help stimulate collagen production
• Can help improve skin elasticity
• Can help relieve skin irritations such as psoriasis and eczema
• Can reduce fine lines and wrinkles

With high concentrations of vitamin E and alpha-linolenic acid (ALA), kiwi seed oil can help retain moisture, improve skin elasticity and help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, blotches, large pores, acne, dark spots and other skin blemishes. Fast absorption rate makes it an excellent day oil or can be blended with a slower absorbing oil for night-time use.

Kukui nut oil

• Comedogenic rating: 2
• Slow absorption rate
• Good for dry skin
• High in vitamins A & E and antioxidants
• Contains healthy fatty acids, linoleic and Omega 3
• Soothing for the skin
• Excellent moisturiser
• Soothing for dry skin, eczema or sunburn
• Can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles

This natural non-greasy oil from Hawaii is known to be an excellent moisturiser. Works well in a day or night serum.

Macadamia nut oil, certified organic 

• Comedogenic rating: 2-3
• Very slow absorption rate
• Good for dry skin
• Close match to naturally occurring sebum of the skin
• Can help skin cell regeneration
• Softening and moisturising
• Contains omega 6 linoleic fatty acid (LA) and omega 7
• Rich in vitamin E
• Can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles

Helps balance oily skin. Great for dry and mature skin. A rich oil that works well in a night oil.

Marula oil, certified organic

• Comedogenic rating: 3-4
• Fast absorption rate
• Good for dry and sensitive skin
• Rich in protein, amino acids, antioxidants
• Contains omega fatty acids 6 and 9
• Great source of vitamin E
• Said to boost skins natural ability to produce collagen, regenerate and repair itself
• Can help reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and redness
• Said to help skin firmness and elasticity.

Particularly good for dry and sensitive skin types, it can penetrate deep into the skin, is easily absorbed and can leave skin glowing but without oily residue.

Moringa oil, certified organic

• Comedogenic rating: 3-4
• Fast absorption rate
• Good for dry, mature and/or combination skin
• Exceptionally high in oleic acid
• Rich in vitamins A and E
• Deeply moisturising
• Said to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
• Can help soothe inflammation
• Can help protect from environmental damage
• Can help rebalance and restore natural oils
• Can help improve the overall appearance of the skin

Moringa oil’s exceptionally high (73%) oleic acid content means it penetrates easily and deeply into the skin’s surface, helping replenish natural oils and lock in moisture, making it an excellent oil for dry and/or mature skin. Oleic acid also contains antioxidant compounds that can help fight free radical damage caused by environmental aggressors such as UV rays, the top trigger of premature ageing, helping prevent fine lines, wrinkles and dark spots. As an anti-inflammatory substance that stimulates wound healing, oleic acid can also help calm, balance and repair skin, even those with damaged conditions like eczema, rosacea and psoriasis. Oleic acid also contains compounds that reinforce the integrity of cell membranes.

Moringa oil is rich in vitamins A and E and antioxidants. These vitamins help improve the elasticity of skin, while antioxidants act as natural preservatives, making it a stable oil resistant to oxidisation and rancidity, allowing for a longer shelf life.

Moringa oil makes for a deep penetrating moisturiser, excellent for night treatments.

Passionfruit seed oil

• Comedogenic rating: 1-2 
• Fast absorption rate
• Good for oily, irritated and acne prone skin
• Contains essential fatty acids (linoleic and oleic), magnesium, calcium
• Rich in Vitamin A
• Non-greasy
• Can help protect against free radicals and environmental stresses
• Can help moisturise and plump skin
• Can help smooth out fine lines and wrinkles
• Beautiful fresh passionfruit scent!

This fresh and delightfully fragranced oil feels like summer smoothie for your face!⁠ Passionfruit oil is light, quickly absorbed and non-greasy. Antioxidants can help firm skin while vitamin A and its high content of essential fatty acids makes it helpful in preventing wrinkles and dry skin. Works very well in a daytime blend.

Pumpkin seed oil, certified organic

• Comedogenic rating: 2
• Average absorption rate
• Good for most skin types
• High in Zinc, Omega 3 and 6 fatty acids and antioxidants
• Rich in Vitamin E
• Good for the treatment of acne
• Can help reduce scarring
• Said to help regenerate skin cells

A great choice for acne prone skin and skin suffering from acne scarring. Said to help firm skin and help with cell renewal.

Rosehip oil, certified organic

• Comedogenic rating: 1
• Very fast absorption rate
• Good for oily and acne prone skin
• Excellent moisturiser
• High in vitamin A and vitamin E
• Said to help regenerate skin cells
• Said to boost collagen
• Can help brighten skin
• Can help reduce fine lines, scarring and damage to sun exposure

High in vitamin A (retinol) which can help encourage skin cell turnover and reduce signs of hyperpigmentation. Rosehip oil contains linoleic and linolenic essential fatty acids which can help to keep cell walls strong so that they don’t lose water. It’s fast and easily absorbed, allowing antioxidants to reach deeper layers of the skin. Very fast absorbing makes it excellent as a day oil, though works well in a night blend too depending on what other oils you blend it with.

Sea buckthorn fruit oil, certified organic

• Comedogenic rating: 1
• Average - slow absorption rate
• Good for most skin types, particularly dry and mature skin
• Rich in vitamins A & E
• Contains omegas 3, 6, 7 and 9
• Said to boost collagen
• Can help brighten skin
• Can help plump skin and smooth out fine lines and wrinkles
• Can help reduce inflammation
• Can help reduce acne breakouts
• Said to repair damage from free radicals
• Said to help diminish hyperpigmentation

With its deep orange colour, thanks to its rich beta carotene content, and its array of powerful antioxidants and minerals, sea buckthorn fruit oil is renowned for its anti-ageing and skin healing benefits. It's said to be excellent for reducing acne breakouts thanks to its ability to signal oil glands to stop creating excess amounts of sebum. Very rich in colour so best used diluted and as a night oil, just be careful applying right before bed as it might stain your pillows!

Squalane - olive

• Comedogenic rating: 0
• Fast absorption rate
• Suitable for all skin types
• Good for dry, sensitive and acne prone skin
• Highly stable with a longer shelf life than other carrier oils
• Penetrates the skin easily so is a great carrier for other ingredients
• Can help improve skin elasticity
• Said to help dry and irritated skin such as eczema and psoriasis
• Said to help help regulate oil production
• Can protect against moisture loss
• Can help with fine lines and wrinkles

Squalane is an unsaturated oil produced by our own skin cells and is part of our skin’s natural moisture. It can also be found in a variety of plants such as olives (our one), sugarcane, rice bran and shark liver (no thank you!). It is put through a hydrogenation process to make it a fully saturated, stable oil with a long shelf life. Squalane oil is non-comedogenic (won't clog pores) and suitable for all skin types, particularly good for dry, sensitive, oily or acne prone skin. A natural ingredient, it is fast absorbing and non-greasy and can be used directly on skin as a face oil. It is a highly effective emollient, natural antioxidant and all round excellent moisturiser, which leaves skin soft and hydrated with a silky skin feel. Said to help heal chapped lips, dry and irritated skin such as eczema and psoriasis, help regulate oil production and help protect skin from free radicals which cause premature signs of ageing such as fine lines and wrinkles.

Sunflower oil

(certified organic or NZ)

• Comedogenic rating: 1
• Average absorption rate
• Good for most skin types
• Rich in vitamins A and E
• Contains omega 6 fatty acid
• Said to protect skin from free radicals
• Said to help skin maintain skin’s natural barrier
• Said to help skin cell regeneration
• Can help reduce inflammation
• Can help eliminate acne causing bacteria

Due to its very low comedogenic rating sunflower oil is non-irritating, highly absorbent, won’t clog pores and is typically suitable for most skin types. Sunflower oil is rich in vitamins A, C, D and E which act as antioxidants, helping regenerate damaged skin cells and eliminate acne causing bacteria. Vitamin E can also help protect skin from free radicals and from adverse effects of the sun, such as premature ageing and wrinkles. Also helping to trap moisture inside skin cells, improving skin hydration and maintaining the integrity of the skin’s outer layer. The omega 6 (linoleic) fatty acid in sunflower oil helps to maintain the skin’s natural barrier, supporting its ability to retain moisture. It can also help reduce skin inflammation and enhance the development of new skin cells.

Tamanu oil, certified organic

• Comedogenic rating: 2
• Slow absorption rate
• Good for most skin types, particularly sensitive or scarred skin
• Properties include: antioxidant, antimicrobial, antibacterial, antifungal, antiseptic and anti-inflammatory
• Said to accelerate healthy tissue growth
• Good for treatment of scarring, bruising, acne, rashes, eczema and after sun care
• Promotes water retention
• Can help skin stay soft and elastic
• Said to smooth and soften fines lines and wrinkles.

Also referred to as “Green Gold” or “Beauty Leaf Oil” the tamanu fruit kernel produces a rich and healing oil. This magic little oil can be used directly on skin & has a distinct earthy, nutty scent, which isn’t everyone’s cup of tea! If you don’t love the smell but want the array of benefits, it can be diluted in a more neutral carrier oil such as jojoba & you can add a few drops of your favourite essential oil.⁠

Walnut oil

• Comedogenic rating: 1-2
• Average absorption rate
• Good for most skin types
• Natural antioxidant
• Rich potassium and selenium
• High omega 3 fatty acid content
• Said to promote cell regeneration
• Can help soothe skin ailments such as psoriasis, eczema and sunburn
• Can help help smooth out fine lines & wrinkles
• Can help stimulate hair growth and strength and fight dandruff

Rich in antioxidants, melatonin, omega 3, 6 and 9, and phytonutrients, walnut oil is said to help reduce skin pigmentation and scarring and help protect the skin from free radical damage. Also said to be great for hair growth and strength this is an excellent ingredient to include in hair products. Average absorption rate means it can be used day or night depending on what other oils you blend with it.

Essential oils and their benefits

Bergamot essential oil, certified organic*

Can help:

• Even out skin tone
• Promote healing of acne and eczema
• Remove dirt from pores
• Reduce scarring
• Boost blood circulation
• Relieve stress and uplift mood

Carrot seed essential oil, certified organic

Can help:

• Stimulate the growth of new cells
• Prevent the development of wrinkles
• repair free radical damage
• Fight bacteria
• Soothe skin
• Rejuvenate skin

Fenugreek essential oil

Can help:

• Soothe itchy and irritated skin
• Prevent the formation of new blackheads
• Prevent and reduce acne inflammation
• Reduce redness
• Moisturise and prevent moisture loss
• Prevent the formation of wrinkles
• Repair skin cells

Frankincense essential oil, certified organic

Can help:

• Prevent fine lines and wrinkles
• Regenerate skin cell and tissue growth
• Prevent acne
• Regulate oily skin
• Dry and sun damaged skin
• Soothe inflamed skin

Geranium essential oil

(certified organic or non organic)

Can help:

• Tighten and firm skin
• Dry and chapped skin
• Prevent fine lines and wrinkles
• Lighten mood
• Heal scarring
• Moisturise and prevent excess oil

Lavender essential oil

(certified organic or non organic NZ or India)

Can help:

• Heal acne and eczema
• Reduce redness and blotching
• Brighten skin
• Relieve stress
• Firm skin
• Boost circulation
• Regenerate skin cell and tissue growth

Lemon essential oil, certified organic*
Can help:

• Fight acne
• Prevent fine lines and wrinkles
• Reduce excess oil
• Tighten and lift skin
• Reduce large pores
• Prevent blackheads
• Brighten skin tone
• Fade acne scarring

Manuka essential oil, NZ

Can help:

• Fight acne and blemishes
• Fight inflammation
• Promote skin clear
• Fight bacterial growth
• Promote the regeneration of new skin
• Treat damaged skin and scarring
• Insect bites

Orange essential oil, certified organic*

Can help:

• Control and balance oil
• Fade dark spots and acne scarring
• Prevent acne
• Prevent wrinkles
• Improve skin elasticity
• Boost blood circulation
• Reduce pores
• Tighten and tone skin

Patchouli essential oil, certified organic

Can help:

• Reduce scarring
• Dry and chapped skin
• Boost blood circulation
• Prevent and reduce fine lines and wrinkles
• Reduce puffiness
• Balance sebum production

Teatree essential oil

(certified organic NZ, certified organic or non organic)

Can help:

• Relieve dry and irritated skin
• Remove excess oil
• Prevent acne
• Heal scarring
• Reduce and unclog large pores
• Firm and tone skin

Ylang ylang essential oil, certified organic

 

• Balance sebum production
• Prevent fine lines and wrinkles
• Prevent acne and speed up healing
• Soothe irritated skin
• Balance out combination skin
• Calm and uplift mood