Design Your Own Face Serum

How to Make Your Own Oil-Based Face Serum

Oil serums have earned their place in modern skincare routines—and for good reason. Made entirely from nutrient-rich oils, they’re free from water, fillers, emulsifiers, and preservatives. This makes them perfect for anyone looking to simplify their skincare or avoid certain additives.

That’s not to say emulsifiers or preservatives are bad—they’re important in many formulations. But if you’re after a minimalist, potent skincare option, an oil serum is a simple and effective alternative.

Why Make Your Own?

Customising your own serum means tailoring it exactly to your skin’s needs. Whether you're targeting dryness, oiliness, sensitivity or dullness, you can create a blend that works for you—or someone lucky enough to receive one as a gift!

Below, we’ve listed some of our favourite carrier and essential oils to help guide your choices. This is just a starting point—there’s a whole world of oils to explore.

Basic Oil Serum Formula

This simple 3-ingredient base makes 100g of serum

Adjust batch volume with Go Native NZ's Batch Size Calculator

99% | 99g carrier oils (choose 2–3)
0.5% | 0.5g essential oils (~6 drops total, choose 2–3)
0.5% | 0.5g vitamin E (optional, for antioxidant benefits and longer shelf life)

Example: Night Repair Serum

49g organic rosehip oil
49g organic jojoba oil
1g vitamin E
0.25g helichrysum essential oil
0.25g frankincense essential oil
0.25g geranium essential oil
0.25g myrrh essential oil

Method

Weigh out your ingredients using mini scales
Mix thoroughly using a glass stirring rod or spoon
Pour into clean glass dropper bottles
Label your serum and take notes—you won’t remember your perfect blend six months from now!

Store: 5ml Amber Glass Dropper Bottle - 20ml Clear Glass Dropper Bottle - 20ml Amber Glass Dropper Bottle

Now for the fun part, making your choices!

Understanding the Ingredients

When browsing oils, you’ll see common skin-benefitting components mentioned. Here’s a quick guide:

Linoleic acid (Omega-6): Replenishes skin barrier and supports hydration
Oleic acid (Omega-9): Nourishing and softening, ideal for drier skin
Alpha-linolenic acid (Omega-3): Anti-inflammatory and deeply hydrating
Omega-7 fatty acids: Promote skin elasticity and healing
Vitamin A: Supports collagen and skin renewal
Vitamin E: Antioxidant protection
Zinc: Supports barrier function and oil regulation

Choosing Your Carrier Oils

Each oil brings something different. Here are a few highlights:

Avocado Oil

Comedogenic rating: 3
Slow absorption rate
Good for dry and acne-prone skin
Contains vitamins A, D and E
Rich and nourishing but heavier on the skin
Note: Higher chance of clogging pores for some skin types

Barbary Fig Seed Oil

Comedogenic rating: 1–2
Fast absorption rate
Ideal for oily and combination skin
Exceptionally high in vitamin E and linoleic acid
Helps soften and brighten the skin

Blackcurrant Seed Oil

Comedogenic rating: 0–1
Slow absorption rate
Great for dry, mature or sensitive skin
High in GLA and linoleic acid
Calms and conditions the skin barrier

Calendula Infused Oil

Comedogenic rating: 1
Medium to slow absorption
Gentle and soothing
Suitable for most skin types
Great for irritated or sensitive skin

Jojoba Oil

Comedogenic rating: 2
Average absorption rate
Mimics skin’s natural sebum
Balances oil production
A safe choice for most skin types

Rosehip Oil

Comedogenic rating: 1
Very fast absorption rate
Ideal for oily or acne-prone skin
Rich in vitamin A and essential fatty acids
Note: Can be sensitive to heat and light; store carefully

Sea Buckthorn Fruit Oil

Comedogenic rating: 1
Medium to slow absorption
Packed with omega fatty acids and antioxidants
Note: Highly pigmented—can stain skin or linens, so dilute well

Tip: Some oils (especially nut oils like macadamia, kukui, or hazelnut) may not be suitable for those with nut allergies. Highly pigmented or strongly scented oils (like sea buckthorn or tamanu) are best diluted in more neutral oils like jojoba or squalane.

Oil Substitutes and Additives

Not everything in a serum needs to be a traditional carrier oil. These oil-like ingredients can enhance texture, absorption, and skin feel while offering unique benefits of their own.

Squalane (Olive-Derived)

Technically not an oil, squalane is a hydrocarbon derived from squalene, a substance naturally found in our skin’s sebum. The olive-derived version is highly stable, lightweight, and non-greasy.

Comedogenic rating: 0
Absorption rate: Fast
Why use it: It’s suitable for all skin types, including acne-prone or sensitive skin. Squalane softens, protects, and helps other ingredients penetrate more easily. It also has an extended shelf life compared to many oils, making it a smart base or additive.

Coco Caprylate

Coco caprylate is an ester derived from coconut oil. It mimics the silky skin feel of silicones and is often used to lighten the texture of heavier formulations.

What it is: A clear, fast-absorbing emollient that adds a dry-touch finish
Why use it: Ideal for anyone who finds oils too greasy or heavy. It gives serums a smooth glide, reduces greasiness, and absorbs quickly—great in hot weather or for oily skin types.

These ingredients can be used alongside your chosen carrier oils to tweak how your serum feels on the skin without compromising its natural profile.

Essential Oils: Potent and Personal

Essential oils are concentrated and should be used sparingly—generally no more than 0.5% of the total formula. Always patch test before use.

Some favourites:

Frankincense: Rejuvenating and balancing
Geranium: Helps balance oil and tone skin
Lavender: Calming and soothing for most skin types
Tea Tree: Clarifying; good for spot-prone skin
Carrot Seed: Rich in antioxidants
Patchouli: Great for mature or dry skin
Ylang Ylang: Balancing and floral
Rose de Mai Absolute: Luxurious and deeply nourishing

Citrus oils like bergamot, orange, and lemon are photosensitive—best used in night serums only.

Boost Your Serum with Oil-Soluble Actives

Once you’ve mastered the basics, you might want to incorporate oil-soluble actives for added skin benefits. These are concentrated ingredients that target specific concerns like ageing, dullness, or sensitivity. They’re usually used at low percentages (0.1–5%) and should be added during the cool-down phase of your formulation to preserve their potency.

Coenzyme Q10 (Ubiquinone)

What it does: A powerful antioxidant that helps protect the skin from environmental stressors and supports collagen production.
Usage rate: 0.5–3%
Formulation tip: Dissolve in a lightweight carrier oil (like squalane) before blending into your serum. CoQ10 may require gentle heating to fully dissolve, so avoid using it with heat-sensitive oils like rosehip.

Bakuchiol

What it does: A gentle, plant-based alternative to retinol. Helps smooth skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines without the irritation that can come with traditional vitamin A derivatives.
Usage rate: 0.5–2%
Skin type: Well tolerated by most, including sensitive skin types.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (Vitamin C derivative)

What it does: A stable, oil-soluble form of vitamin C that brightens the skin and supports collagen synthesis.
Usage rate: 1–5%
Bonus: Less likely to oxidise than water-based vitamin C.

Alpha Bisabolol

What it does: Naturally found in chamomile, this soothing active helps calm skin and reduce the appearance of redness.
Usage rate: 0.1–1%
Ideal for: Sensitive or reactive skin types.

Vitamin E (Tocopherol)

What it does: A well-known antioxidant that helps extend the shelf life of oils and supports overall skin barrier function.
Usage rate: 0.1–1%
Bonus: Helps protect against oxidative stress and supports smoother, softer skin.

Final Tips

Less is more: Stick to a few well-chosen oils to start.
Note everything: Write down your formula and impressions.
Storage: Keep in a cool, dark place and use within 6–12 months.
Patch test: Especially when trying new essential oils or if you have sensitive skin.