Ever wanted to make your own lipstick? It's easier than you think!
I've spent the last few months researching DIY makeup that you'd actually want to wear. Here I've put together a step by step guide to doing just that. I've opted to make a vegan lipstick here, because I'm vegan and I can!
For the recipe, shade suggestions and a full list of ingredient see the bottom.
EquipmentWe've sourced the things that you will find incredibly useful for making lipstick.
First we have mini scales that measure in increments of .00g, great for weighing small amounts of ingredients.
Then we've got glass beakers for melting and mixing your product in and mini silicone spatulas which are great for smooshing and blending your pigment evenly through your base. Both are very useful but not imperative, you can use any heatproof dish and a regular spatula, they just make the job much easier.
Last but far from least are mini measuring spoons. I would go as far as to say you NEED these because they are the only way to measure the tiny amounts of colour you will be working with and the recipe is measured in "TADS (1/4 tsp), PINCHES (1/16 tsp) and DROPS (1/64 tsp) which are marked on them. Without them it's a bit like trying to follow a dinner recipe and having to estimate how much a tablespoon is.
We've put together a handy makeup equipment starter kit which has all of these plus Marie Rayma's excellent book Make It
Up which has lots of other lip makeup recipes and recipes are every other part of your face!
Step one: Making the base
If you're working with a lipstick pack jump to Step two.
Weigh all your ingredients except the calcium carbonate in a heatproof dish and place in a water bath. Try to have the water level above or level with where your ingredients come to but low enough that it's not in any danger of splashing into your mixture.
The magnesium stearate will take a while to melt and will take a bit of smooshing against the side of the dish to combine. Once everything is combined, take it off the heat and add the calcium carbonate gradually and carefully work in. It's going to take a bit more smooshing!
Place the base that you're not going to use right now in a lidded jar, in a cool dry place, you can come back to it later.
Step two: Adding pigment
Weigh out 6g of your base into your beaker or dish. It's good to use 6g even if you're filling a 5g container to make allowances for mixture getting lost around the sides of your dish, better to have a touch too much than too little. It won't look like much, I'm making 12g here so will look like half as much as the far left picture.
Now it's time to add your pigment. With your measuring spoons take out the colour you want and sweep the top with a knife to level it out, don't pack them tight, this way you'll know you're always using the same amount therefore upholding the integrity of your shades.
Step three: Blending in the pigment
Once you've got your pigment in with your base (remember you don't have to put it all in at once, you can build colour gradually until you reach your desired shade) place it back in the water bath. You want the water to be hot but not boiling as boiling water runs a higher risk of splashing into your mixture and if that happens you'll want to chuck it out and start again. Give it a minute or so to soften up and then start blend and, you guessed it, smooshing! You can take it out of the water to do this and put it back in to soften it again. As you can see from the far right picture it will be pretty globby at first. Really make sure you work all the pigment in as a little goes a long way so every bit of it works towards your final shade.
Blending in the pigment continued...
This is where the mini spatula is really useful, for running around the edges and gathering mixture that's stuck to the sides and popping it back in to soften. Just keep smooshing! You'll see the consistency change and when you're convinced it's all mixed in you're ready to pour.
Step four: Pouring
Prepare the container/s that you want to fill, here I'm using a 5ml glass pot and a 5g plastic tube. You want a flat, easily cleanable surface. As you can see in the picture on the far right, as you pour it will solidify so just run your spatula around the edge and place it back in the water bath to soften it up again. You will probably have to do this three or four times.
You made lipstick!!
Leave your lipstick to set. Putting it in the fridge will speed the process up but the candelilla wax can take a couple of days to fully harden so it might feel a little soft at first.
When formulating your own shades the rule of thumb is 7 x PINCHES (1/16 tsp) of pigment per 6g of base, not including micas (the pigments that do the grunt work when it comes to colouring). Feel free to experiment with less or more.
And have fun!
Full list of the ingredients used in this blog including direct links to them:
Shea butter, certified organic
Castor oil, certified organic
Jojoba oil, certified organic
Rouge red (D&C Red Lake 7)
Red iron oxide
Brown iron oxide
For other shade suggestions:
Yellow iron oxide
Bronze satin mica
Princess peach mica
All colours available HERE
Equipment available HERE.
DIY Lipstick pack with base and pigments to make all shade suggestions available HERE.
*Ultramarines are not approved for use in lipsticks in the USA but they are approved for use in all cosmetics without restriction in Europe. Because of the approval given by the European Union we've included it but it is only required for the shade 'Naomi Smalls' so you can easily choose not to use it.