Stearic Acid
Vegetable-derived stearic acid is a solid fatty acid used to thicken, harden, and stabilise formulations. It occurs naturally in many fats and oils (e.g., high levels in butters like shea/cocoa/kokum; small amounts in some liquid oils). Ours is plant-based (RSPO palm-derived) and supplied as small white beads.
Why formulators use it
- Adds body/opacity to lotions and creams
- Works as a co-emulsifier to boost viscosity and stability alongside a primary O/W emulsifier
- Firms balms, salves, and sticks with a rich, buttery feel (without the tack of true waxes)
- Helps raise melting point of anhydrous products (useful in warmer climates)
- Improves rinse-off in cleansing balms/scrubs versus wax-only thickening
How to use
General processing
- Add to the heated oil phase and melt completely (about 70 °C), then combine with the water phase.
- Optional: partial neutralisation with a small amount of base (e.g., TEA/AMP/NaOH/KOH) converts some stearic acid to stearate, increasing viscosity and stability.
- Charge behaviour: Non-ionic as supplied; becomes anionic stearate when neutralised.
Typical usage rates by application
- Creams & lotions (O/W): 1–5% to thicken/opaquify
- As a co-emulsifier: 1–3% with your primary O/W emulsifier to add body & stability
- Balms, salves, body butters (anhydrous): 2–10% for structure and butter-like richness
- Sticks/deodorants: 5–15% for firmness (often with waxes/butters)
- Cleansing balms & emulsified scrubs: 5–15% for creamy texture and clean rinse
- Cold-process soap: 1–3% of oils to increase hardness/dense lather (recalculate lye; can accelerate trace)
- Candles/wax projects: 2–10% with paraffin/other waxes to harden and reduce mottling
Formulating tips
- Start low—small increases can make a big jump in viscosity.
- Blend with cetyl or cetearyl alcohol for a creamier, cushier feel (expect to re-tune levels if substituting).
- Cool with gentle stirring to minimise graininess.
Common Name: Stearic Acid
INCI: Stearic Acid
Appearance: Small white beads/pellets
Solubility: Oil (insoluble in water)
Melting point: ~60–70 °C (typ. ~69 °C)
Usage range: 1–25% (see application guides above)
Charge: Non-ionic (forms anionic stearate when neutralised)
Vegan: Yes
Palm source: Yes — RSPO approved sustainable palm
Animal tested: No
Safety: For external use only. Avoid inhaling dust. Patch test finished products before use.
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General Care, Safety & Storage Information:
- Go Native New Zealand specialise in skincare, cosmetic and aromatherapy ingredients. We are NOT licensed to sell food. This means our products are not food grade, for this reason we advise you not to use our products internally, or for culinary purposes
- Always follow product-specific notes or directions.
- Keep all products out of reach of pets and children.
- We recommend storing all products in a dark, damp-free, cool place at room temperature (unless stated otherwise).
- Keep your products away from direct sunlight.
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