Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid)
Vitamin C (Ascorbic acid) is one of the most popular cosmetic actives used to support a brighter-looking complexion and a more even skin tone. It is widely used in anti-ageing and radiance-focused skincare due to its ability to help reduce the appearance of dark spots and dullness and promote a smoother, more luminous complexion.
Notes on Formulating with Ascorbic Acid
Ascorbic acid is the purest and most bioavailable form of Vitamin C, but it is also one of the most challenging ingredients to work with in cosmetic formulations. It is highly sensitive to air, heat, and light, which means it oxidises easily and can lose potency quickly if not carefully stabilised. It requires a low pH environment to remain active and stable, typically between pH 2.6 and 4.0, which can make it unsuitable for very sensitive skin or pH-sensitive systems.
Creating a stable Vitamin C serum at home can be difficult without controlled formulation environments and stabilisers. Many DIY formulas have a short shelf life, and discolouration to yellow or brown is a common sign of oxidation.
If you are looking for a gentler or more stable alternative for DIY skincare, we also stock the following Vitamin C derivatives, which are far easier to formulate with and remain effective in a wider range of products:
Ascorbyl Glucoside: A stable, water-soluble Vitamin C derivative suitable for serums, gels, and creams
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate: An oil-soluble, premium Vitamin C derivative ideal for facial oils and anhydrous serums
Both options are less irritating and have a longer shelf life than pure Ascorbic Acid.
Formulation Tips
• Store airtight and protected from light to slow oxidation
• Best used in low pH, water-based serums
• Adding chelators such as Sodium Phytate or antioxidants such as Vitamin E can help enhance stability
• Avoid heating as it accelerates oxidation
Common Name: Ascorbic Acid, Vitamin C
INCI: Ascorbic Acid
Certification: Conventional
Appearance: Fine white powder
Origin: China
Solubility: Water soluble
Usage Rate: 1 to 10 percent
pH Range: 2.6 to 4
Vegan: Yes
Palm Oil: No
Animal Tested: No
All our products are for external use only.
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General Care, Safety & Storage Information:
- Go Native New Zealand specialise in skincare, cosmetic and aromatherapy ingredients. We are NOT licensed to sell food. This means our products are not food grade, for this reason we advise you not to use our products internally, or for culinary purposes
- Always follow product-specific notes or directions.
- Keep all products out of reach of pets and children.
- We recommend storing all products in a dark, damp-free, cool place at room temperature (unless stated otherwise).
- Keep your products away from direct sunlight.
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