Vitamin C Glow Oil

A lightweight, oil-based vitamin C serum

Oil-based vitamin C serums have become increasingly popular thanks to their excellent stability, gentle skin feel and elegant texture. This lightweight, water-free vitamin C oil uses tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THDA), a lipid-soluble form of vitamin C that is well suited to anhydrous formulations and often chosen by those who find traditional water-based vitamin C serums irritating.

Inspired by popular oil-based vitamin C serums such as Medik8 C-Tetra®, this formulation explores how a similar vitamin C approach can be created using a simplified, silicone-free ingredient list. THDA works beautifully in oil systems, where it remains stable and comfortable on the skin. Because the formula contains no water, it does not require a preservative and is known for its stability in water-free formulations.

This recipe is an independent formulation created for educational purposes. It is not affiliated with or endorsed by Medik8®.

Cost comparison (approximate)

Medik8 C-Tetra® Serum (30ml): $98 NZD
Vitamin C Glow Oil (DIY, per 30ml batch): ~$17 NZD
Approximate saving per batch: ~$81 NZD

To make this Vitamin C Glow Oil at home, the initial ingredient purchase (using the smallest available sizes from Go Native NZ) is approximately $44 NZD.

Those quantities make around 2½ batches (approximately 75ml total), which works out to an effective ingredient cost of around $17 NZD per 30ml batch once the ingredients are fully used.

Buying larger ingredient sizes reduces the per-batch cost further if you plan to make this serum regularly. For example, when ingredients are costed at 100ml/g volumes, the estimated ingredient cost to make one 30ml batch drops to approximately $8 NZD, with tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate remaining the primary cost driver.

Pricing is based on current Go Native NZ ingredient prices at the time this recipe was created. Excludes packaging, labour and overheads. Some ingredients will remain after making the first batch, reducing the cost of subsequent batches.

Why this formula works

This serum pairs THDA with squalane and coco caprylate to create a lightweight, silky slip without the use of silicones. Jojoba oil adds balance and skin compatibility, while vitamin E supports the oil phase and helps protect the formula from oxidation.

Together, these ingredients create a simple but sophisticated vitamin C oil that absorbs quickly, layers easily and suits daily use, particularly as a morning vitamin C step.

Vitamin C Glow Oil Formula

Ingredients

Makes 30g – Adjust batch volume with Go Native NZ’s Batch Size Calculator

44% | 13.2g jojoba oil
26% | 7.8g squalane
22% | 6.6g coco caprylate
7% | 2.1g tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
1% | 0.3g vitamin E

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Method

Add all ingredients to a clean beaker or mixing jug.
Stir gently but thoroughly until the mixture is completely uniform.
Transfer the finished serum into a clean amber glass bottle, ideally with a dropper.

No heating or preservative is required.

Substitutions

This formula is flexible and can be adjusted to suit your preferred skin feel.

Lighter finish
Increase coco caprylate slightly and reduce jojoba oil.

More cushion
Increase squalane slightly for a softer, more nourishing feel.

Fragrance-free by design
This serum is intentionally left unfragranced, making it well suited to daytime use and sensitive skin types.

Usage note

As this is a fully anhydrous formula, no preservative is required. Store away from direct heat and light to help maintain freshness.

As with any new skincare product, a patch test is recommended before first use, particularly for formulas containing higher percentages of active ingredients such as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.